Pinch a bud of lavender between your fingers and you’ll release a powerful essence that not only gives the plant its scent but also provides protection and facilitates healing. Called essential or volatile oils, these potent substances are found in more than 200 plants and have the ability to soothe, rejuvenate, and purify from head to toe. The use of essential oils — the foundation of aromatherapy — is both an art and a science that affects overall well-being. And when this is applied to skincare, you may discover a tonic as seductive as the fountain of youth.

The practice of using oil infusions for health and beauty rituals is not new. Cleopatra used rose and frankincense in ancient Egypt, sandalwood has always been prevalent in India, and myrrh has been popular in Greece. But true essential oils weren’t extracted from plants until steam distillation was perfected in the 11th century, when they were used primarily to ward off infections, heal wounds, and repel insects. It wasn’t until the 1930s that the French chemist Rene-Maurice Gattefosse discovered the therapeutic value of essential oils and coined the word aromatherapy. Today there’s sophisticated equipment that deciphers the intricate chemical structure of essential oils.

Each oil offers a unique fingerprint, revealing hundreds of components that work synergistically to calm inflammation, stimulate circulation, promote healthy cell growth, and kill bacteria. Plants store this precious liquid in specially designed cells or canals within their seeds, flowers, bark, fruit rinds, or leaves. Scientists have learned to harvest the liquid through steam distillation (the most common method), solvent extraction for stubborn flowers like jasmine and tuberose, expression (a method using pressure) for fruit rinds, and CO2 extraction, which is expensive but worth the price for the high-quality oil it produces.

Steam distillation and CO2 extraction are favored because these methods produce oils without any chemical residue, though essential oils from citrus rinds, such as bergamot, are best when expressed by hand. “Extracting essential oils is the most amazing science,” says Erich Worster, president of Anakiri, a bioenergetic skincare line. “It’s a symphony of factors. Different constituents come out of a plant depending on where it was grown, what the season was like, and the level of temperature or pressure during the extraction process. It’s as complex as winemaking.” The resulting essential oil is so potent it only takes a drop or two to have a beneficial effect. In fact, most oils shouldn’t be applied to the skin unless they’ve been diluted because they can be quite caustic.

While there are no fatty molecules in essential oils (making the name a bit of a misnomer) they readily mix with cold- or expellerpressed vegetable oils called carrier oils. This combination makes them suitable for skincare, providing moisturizing fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals that aid in collagen production. But put oil onto the face? Yes, say the experts. “People think if they have oily skin they shouldn’t use oils because they’ll break out,” says Sonya Dakar, creator of the eponymous skincare line. “But the good ones — like sweet almond, flaxseed, and rose hip — will never clog pores. They’re healing ingredients that balance and nourish the skin.”

Decléor Aromaessence Iris
This blend of 100 percent pure essential oils, including stimulating iris and repairing geranium, helps soften signs of time. ($80, decleor.com)Decléor Aromaessence Iris This blend of 100 percent pure essential oils, including stimulating iris and repairing geranium, helps soften signs of time.
($80, decleor.com)

Sonya Dakar Omega
-3 Repair Complex –
Irritation Calming bergamot and chamomile extracts give this facial oil the strength to pacify sensitive skin, rosacea, and eczema.
($35, sonyadakar.com)

Anakiri Balancing Mineral Mist
Sea algae, oat beta glucan, and clary sage essential oils deeply hydrate and naturally balance the complexion.
($28, anakiri.com)

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