Thailand’s lively capital reveals a host of serene spas.
      Bangkok is a vibrant, colorful city with a unique energy: endless traffic jams; open-air markets offering everything from pad Thai to T-shirts to all imaginable types of orchids; motorcycles galore; and a hip young set making waves in the music, film, and fashion scenes. This city of nine million is on an incredible upswing. Yet at the same time, it’s very much connected to its past. Here, ancient temples (about 400 of them) stand alongside new skyscrapers going up faster than you can say sawadee — Thai for “hello.” There are tuk-tuks (bicycle-powered cabs) and a modern SkyTrain, Bangkok’s official mass transit system.

       Called Krung Thep (City of Angels) by the Thai people, Bangkok’s full name is impossibly long and complex. Containing 64 syllables, it’s translated loosely as “great city of angels, the supreme repository of divine jewels, the great land unconquerable, the grand and foremost realm, the royal and delightful capital city of the nine noble gems, the highest regal dwelling and grand palace, the divine shelter and living place of the reincarnated spirits.” From this translation, the word that most captures its essence for me is “delightful,” for the Thai are a people who appear to have no time for sadness, preferring to maintain harmony in all endeavors. This is most likely due to the widespread practice of Theravada. (In Thailand 95 percent of the people practice this southern form of Buddhism, which emphasizes acting with compassion and overcoming the world’s suffering by achieving salvation through enlightenment.) When I first visited Bangkok two years ago, I learned a story that has stayed with me and sums up the above. About four years ago, Thai Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn decided to change the name of the frangipani flower. Why did she deem it necessary to do so? Because its original name, lun tom, translated to “sadness.” It is officially now called lee-la-va-dee, which means “beautiful,” or “elegant.” Such is the Thai perspective.
      Ethereal elegance is just what I discovered when I returned to Bangkok recently. My 10-day stay afforded the opportunity to check out some of the city’s newest spas. Thai bodywork is a true art form, and if you’re ever in Thailand, Thai massage is a must. Created 2,500 years ago, the Thai word for it is nuat bo’rarn, with nuat meaning “to touch with the intention of imparting healing,” and bo’rarn meaning “ancient, sacred, and revered.” One of the most popular sights in Bangkok is Wat Po, Thailand’s oldest and largest temple; it contains stone slabs inscribed with the complete knowledge of this ancient massage. Wat Po is also where you’ll find the Traditional Medicine School and the national headquarters for the teaching and preservation of traditional Thai medicine. Knowing this, I was eager to experience what awaited me.
 DAYS 1 TO 5 A willowy and cheerful young woman who goes by the name of Apple welcomed me to I.Sawan Residential Spa & Club, at the Grand Hyatt Erawan. A spa concierge, she would be my personal butler. I.Sawan translates to “resting place of the elephant god,” and upon entering my spa cottage on the fifth floor (intended to signify the fifth level of heaven), leaving was the last thing that occurred to me. There are six cottages situated along a pleasant, winding garden path. Each has a bedroom, living room, private treatment room, and outdoor patio. Created by the American interior designer Tony Chi, they are masterpieces of contemporary tranquility. I loved the clean aesthetic of the space and the feeling of being so very far away from the clamor of the city below.
      Although I experienced several treatments in the cottage, such as the Aromasoul massage (meant to detoxify and conquer jet lag) and a sesame seedand- almond body polish, a favorite was the energizing Citrus Bath Service. Quite an affair, it entailed two spa therapists bearing trays of fresh lemongrass, kaffir lime slices, bergamot leaves, freshly squeezed orange juice, and vials of oil — all ceremoniously emptied into the bathtub, full of warm water. I soaked in this fragrant and skin-softening brew for 30 minutes, as instructed, with the sun filtering through the floor-to-ceiling windows that overlooked the patio. This sensuous bath was followed by a delicious meal of fruit tea and citrus salad.
      I was curious about the spa facility itself, which is also located on the fifth floor of the hotel. To access it from the cottages, one walks through manicured hedgerows and frangipani trees, by the outdoor swimming pool surrounded with a handsome teak deck, and past pool attendants attired in preppy khakis who serve drinks and food. (An outdoor dining and lounge area offers a tantalizing mix of healthy Thai and Western dishes. The spa menu uses an elephant symbol to denote lighter fare.)
    For the sports enthusiast, the spa houses a well-equipped fitness center called The Greenhouse, as well as a fitness studio, two squash courts, and an outdoor tennis court. The gym is open from 6 a.m. until 11 p.m. and is nicely outfitted with Technogym equipment and built-in television systems. I exercised mostly in the late afternoons, blissfully rowing away. But evenings are when The Greenhouse really comes alive — turning into a social scene buzzing with Bangkok’s young, upwardly mobile professionals who finish their workouts with refreshing, healthy drinks at the adjacent juice bar.
     Six outdoor, tastefully decorated bungalows with Jim Thompson silk drapes in beige-and-gray plaid and silk throw pillows serve as the treatment rooms. (Two are designed for Thai massage with raised-floor beds.) I liked the touch of the terry-covered treatment tables and the tranquility of the rooms’ design. It was in one of these bungalows that I opted for a 90-minute Hot Stone Massage. I’m not usually a fan of this treatment, preferring more handson deep tissue work, but I was curious to give it a try. Suffice to say, I’m glad my curiosity got the best of me.
     DAYS 6 TO 9 The next spa experience had its own special character and highlights. The Health Club & Spa at the JW Marriott is one of the busiest in the city with a loyal membership that takes advantage of the huge fitness facility. Located in the central business and shopping district, near the major convention centers, this property offers creative treatments concocted by spa manager Nathalie Paque, who has been with the spa since its inception. Taking up the entire sixth floor of the hotel, the 20,000-square-foot facility encompasses a 10-room spa, a two-chair salon, and a juice/smoothie bar. The most-requested spa service, Paque explained, is the Aroma Fusion Massage, a healing service that combines Swedish bodywork techniques and aromatherapy. What makes it unique is that the massage oil blends change depending on time of day. Joy (which includes uplifting grapefruit and sweet orange), for example, is used in the morning massages, Wellness (infused with balancing patchouli and clary sage) is bestowed in the afternoon, and Serenity (with tranquility inducing chamomile and French lavender) is applied in the evening. There are wonderful traditional Thai treatments here, too, including the Herbal Bundle Massage, which involves aromatic herbal compresses in conjunction with Thai massage to bring warmth and relieve aching or stiff joints. The signature Green Tea Total Invigoration treatment was a personal favorite. One of Paque’s specialties, it includes a body peel with green tea, a body wrap with aloe vera and green tea, a massage with cucumber and avocado oils, and a footbath with sea salts and essential oil of lime.
     I had the good fortune to meet with Vipasiri Napawongdee, known as Lek, the property’s public relations manager. Lek turned out to be my secret source for two of the city’s best day spas. Spa 1930 was the first recommendation, and if you are intrigued with architecture, as I am, then you’ll love this unique oasis located in one of the city’s Architectural Heritage Buildings. Named for the year a Thai prince commissioned its construction, this historic building sits amidst lush gardens. The spa features its own, all-natural line of skincare products, and its extensive menu offers customized services, such as Harmony Spice, a body treatment that uses a special blend of honey and black sesame (wonderful for detoxifying and exfoliating). Next, I was off to Spa of Qinera, a day spa housed in a former mid-19th-century home originally built by a wealthy Chinese family who immigrated to Bangkok. Red and yellow dominate the decor — colors associated with luck and prosperity. Opened last June, the treatments here are based on ancient Chinese beliefs and incorporate the five elements: wood, fire, earth, water, and metal. Each of the uniquely designed treatment rooms is named after one of these elements and accordingly decorated. My treatment began, as each does, with a relaxing and cleansing footbath in a special “foot spa” room that seats five along a long and narrow cushioned bench. This spa is popular with travelers from Hong Kong and China who come for treatments like the Chinoiserie Chic, which includes a Pomegranate Body Scrub followed by a Pomegranate Breeze Wrap and concludes with a bath.
     It didn’t seem like I was in a city of nine million while safely tucked away here. I felt like I was in another land altogether, thanks to the superattentive staff and the hominess of the space. I was so utterly relaxed that on preparing to leave, even sliding sandals back on proved difficult.
    The next spa stop was as different from Qinera as day from night. The Banyan Tree Bangkok is the city’s tallest all-suite luxury hotel, with the spa itself located on the 21st floor (it also houses an excellent spa retail shop full of bath and beauty products, Thai crafts, and teas, among other well-chosen treasures). Banyan Tree opened a special Spa Academy in 2001 where their therapists are thoroughly trained, and come out with superior skills. The Harmony Banyan package — a 180- minute extravaganza that includes a footbath; a turmeric-and-honey body scrub; Harmony Massage (during which two therapists work each side of the body simultaneously); head and foot rub; and, finally, an apple and green tea bath in a petalstrewn whirlpool tub — proves the school a success.
     La Bretagne Holistic Rejuvenation, a medical spa just opened this past February, is making quite a splash with the local society ladies. Situated in the chic new Siam Paragon mall (billed as Southeast Asia’s largest, it boasts more than 300 high-end shops), it features treatments and products by Repêchage (an American professional skincare line based on seaweed). There’s a dermatologist on call from 11:00 a.m. to 7:30 p.m., and you can opt for non-invasive aesthetic work or more traditional spa treatments. I tried the revitalizing Foot Massage, which was true to its name. It began with a muchneeded foot soak in a plain plastic bucket of warm water followed by a vigorous scrub with a brush and bar soap. Then my feet were placed in the Foot Bubble Roller Massager footbath to which a product called Bare Feet Gone to Heaven was added. After this soothing soak, I received one of the most divine foot massages I’ve experienced.
    As a fan of Ole Henriksen, I couldn’t leave Bangkok without visiting his eponymous Face/Body day spa. This is the third and newest location for the skincare guru, who has an upscale, celebrityfavorite day spa in Los Angeles as well as an outpost at One, the spa at Shutters on the Beach in Santa Monica, California. Spending much of his youth in Indonesia, he fondly recalls running in the tropical rain showers. (Inspired by that memory, he created an overhead rinsing system in his spas that’s similar in feel.) I had a superior customized facial here that included an invigorating massage utilizing Henriksen’s product line. He has been concocting products for 30 years and was one of the first to create spa treatments using fresh ingredients — such as honey, oranges, and red tea. While this day spa is located on the basement level of a bustling office building, soft lighting, calming fountains, cool stone, and lots of greenery make it feel like a private retreat. Right next door is the Red Tea Lounge should you desire a reviving cup of tea.
     In the mood for a delicious meal, I visited the Metropolitan, home to the sleek Como Shambhala spa. This luxury hotel features two excellent restaurants, one being Glow — a spectacular alternative venue that serves fresh, organic cuisine created by executive chef Amanda Gale. I sampled a kingfish ceviche followed by a delicious green curry with tofu and vegetables. I couldn’t pass up the Beet Root and Cranberry Cake with yogurt, sorbet, and walnuts for dessert. Glow nicely complements Como Shambhala which has one of the most beautifully serene women’s areas I’ve come across. I could happily spend all day in the whirlpool. There are 10 treatment rooms in all, four of which are Thai pavilions. There’s also a couple’s room with a soaking tub and shower, and a fitness center that overlooks the pool.
 

 DAY 10 My last night in Bangkok was spent at The Oriental, an elegant, historic property on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. While the hotel celebrated its 130th anniversary this year, the more than 21,000-squarefoot spa opened in 1993 and set the standard for luxury hotel spas. Situated in a historic teakwood house, one must take a boat across the river from the hotel to access this spa. A few years ago, it underwent a million-dollar renovation, adding new facilities such as the Water Suite with a heated scrub table, vitality pool, and rhassoul bath. While there are a plethora of Thai services to choose from, including a fragrant body scrub that uses a refreshing combination of honey, mint, and lavender to work its magic, I always opt for The Oriental — and I’m never disappointed. A traditional Thai massage, it was just what I’d been looking for — and just what I needed before boarding the more than 15-hour flight back to the States. The treatment at The Oriental took place on a mat in one of the spa’s simple and spacious suites (like little temples unto themselves) elegantly appointed with Thai and Burmese antiques and fresh orchids. It was the perfect ending to my 10- day Bangkok spa escape, and on heading back to New York, I felt convinced I had found not only the ultimate Thai massage, but also the secret to the serene smiles of the beautiful Thai people.

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